Persianness #5: Cinna

words and photos by Shab Ferdowsi

I met Cinna Peyghamy backstage at La Bellevilloise in Paris in March. It was a Disco Tehran party for Nowruz (the Persian New Year) where I was snapping photos and Cinna was opening the night with an experimental electronic tombak performance.

The room had just started filling up when Cinna took his seat on the small Persian carpet where his modular synth was set up on stage. He kicked off his shoes, placed his tombak (the traditional Persian goblet drum) onto his lap, and began. The crowd matched the energy by dropping down onto the venue floor, cross-legged and mesmerized, as Cinna filtered the sounds of his drum through his synth. Traditional sounds of the tombak turned into electronic waves and bytes, and by the end, I was hooked.

Backstage after the set, we were caught in a flurry of conversations with the other Iranian and middle eastern artists and event crew, speaking in French, and English and tossing in some Farsi here and there.

When I learned that Cinna, who was born in Paris to Iranian parents, had never been to Iran himself, I knew I wanted to learn more. How did he get here, mixing the sounds of a traditional Iranian instrument (which he mastered so well) with modern experimental playfulness?

A few weeks later I walked into his studio in the 20eme arrondissement on a rainy day. I grabbed a seat on the couch while Cinna poured me some tea and brought out a tray of Persian chickpea cookies called nokhodchi, the kind I ate every year during our new year growing up. I took a sip, grabbed a sweet, and listened.

 
 
 

Cinna was born and raised in Paris in a diverse neighborhood to Iranian parents. His passion for music started similarly to most other musicians. Guitar classes at a young age, a rock band with his friends, a pivot to playing drums, some Blink 182 covers, and many battle of the bands concerts at historic local venues like Bataclan and New Morning.

But where his journey starts to set him apart and on the path toward the cultural mélange of music he is making now started with his curiosity for electronics. His interest in making beats and learning about computers led him to a hybrid Engineering / Music degree in Paris. He was simultaneously on a science track at one school and a creative track at another learning how to code (DAWS, plugins, apps) while starting to perform his electronic sets on the side.

 
 

While feeling slightly uninspired by the drums, he fell onto a video of a Mohammad Reza Mortazavi, one of the best Iranian tombak players in the world, and was sold. This became his next pivot, and luckily he was able to start learning immediately thanks to a family friend who was an instructor in Paris.

At the same time, he discovered the modular synth and began toying with the idea of combining the two instruments. As Cinna pulled out his synth board to explain to me how it worked and what all the colorful cables did (which I was somewhat able to grasp?), I began to see the dots starting to connect.

The synth and the tombak together create one single ecosystem, and Cinna’s performance becomes a musical manifestation of his exploration of his own cross-cultural identity.

At 25 he had what he called a “raise of consciousness” about his Persianness, where he became curious about his own heritage especially since he had never been to Iran himself. The tombak allowed him to connect with his parents’ homeland and the culture he had grown up with in his home. His practice has become a platform that helps him seek solace between his two worlds: France, a modern West where he was born and raised, and Iran, where he has his roots.

 

Listen to Cinna’s debut EP belw

 
 

Persianness #4: Tara

words and photos by Shabnam Ferdowsi

 

I met Tara in the most 2023 way.

Tara was looking for a camera on facebook marketplace when she came across my listing. I had to let her down since I’d already sold it, but we stayed in the chat to exchange Instagram handle anyway. Selling camera gear on the internet has proven to be a really cool way to meet other like-minded photographers (of course, you both had your eye on the same camera at one point) and we both were keen to keep that spirit up. As it turned out, Tara was also Persian, had a beautiful Instagram account full of 35mm photos of Iran, and drew a lot of inspiration in her set design work from Persian textures and visuals. I felt instantly that I needed to collaborate with this gal!

So Tara, equally excited about this serendipitous internet connection, invited me to her home for an afternoon of sunny portraits and tea. Nestled in the hills of Bel Air, in a home she shares with a handful of other young creative women, Tara shared with me her story over some chaee and shirini (tea and cookies).

 

Tara in her backyard, under an astrology banner she had hung up for a Co-Star themed birthday party the weekend before.

 

Born and raised in Orange County, photography was something that fell into Tara’s life out of nowhere. As most eastern cultures go, Iranians don’t normally end up in the arts, we typically end up in the sciences.

But one day in 2015, when Tara , a self proclaimed lover of organization, was cleaning out her mom’s closet, she came across a big bag of old stuff. In this bag of stuff was a camera, without an LCD screen on the back, that caught her eye. She bought her first roll of film at Samy’s Camera in Costa Mesa, and when the scans came back from the lab she was hooked.

Now, after a stint in corporate America running the social media for a law firm (and hating it!), Tara is playing and freelancing around Los Angeles as a multidisciplinary artist.

As a photographer, she mainly works with budding musicians, shooting primarily on film. As a set designer, she takes a lot of inspiration from Iran (think Persian rugs and mirrored tablecloths) and uses this medium to pay homage to her culture.

Her relationship with her Persianness wasn’t always this inspired.

Growing up, she spent every summer with her family in Iran, a special experience I could relate to. But what came with this intimate connection with our roots was the stark disconnect we would feel as we would land back at LAX, back home in Southern California, on the other side of the planet from the rest of our families.

At home in Orange County, Taraneh became Tara, and Tara was hesitant to express her love and affection for Iran with her peers or through her work. But she had rolls and rolls of film photos taken in Tehran and beyond during her travels and wanted to find a way to share them, so she launched @IranOnFilm in 2020. By sharing this part of herself, she’s been able to expand her own creativity and feel confident in her skin as an Iranian-American.

 

bags of pofak, a puffy cheetoh-like snack, that marked all our childhoods like salty,orange stained fingertips.


Follow Tara’s work on Instagram and view her portfolio on her website.

Persianness #3: Tanin

words and photos by Shab Ferdowsi

Tanin’s home in Paris XVII is a colorful showcase of Iranian artisanry. The Evil Eye and the Hand of Fatima adorn hand-crafted home goods that she has brought back from Iran, and over the past few years has been sharing with a community of curious Parisians via her business, Paris Perse.

Tanin and her family moved to Paris 34 years ago and settled into the 15ème arrondissement, which has become home to a large part of the Iranian diaspora in the French capital. There, her parents opened a restaurant and Persian grocery store to serve the community.

Paris is a multicultural city, and Tanin’s life flowed between Iranian and French communities through her childhood and beyond. A deep connection to her roots and many years studying different aspects of business eventually took her to Iran in 2015 to work as a liaison for international companies that were beginning to settle in Tehran.

But shifting socio-economics left her needing to pivot in 2018. Over the year she spent trying to find her footing, some close international clients encouraged her to share the beauty of her culture back in Paris, where Iranian artisanry didn’t have a platform yet.

So in 2019, Paris Perse was born.

Three times a year Tanin travels around Iran searching for artisans to support and whose crafts she wants to share in Paris. At the same time, she’s been able to bring her dedicated customers along, going live on Instagram and getting immediate feedback about which items to bring back.

Today, Paris Perse doesn’t have a brick-and-mortar boutique, but will occasionally run pop-ups around the city. where customers can shop the current colleciton.

For Tanin, Paris Perse isn’t just a business, but the fuel that allows her to connect with her homeland in a more meaningful way, all while shining a positive light on Iranian culture in Paris.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Persianness #2: Raamin

words and photos by Shabnam Ferdowsi

I rushed past Momzi’s unassuming shop in the 2ème arrondissement in Paris, almost missing it completely, just as swiftly as I could have missed stumbling onto their Instagram account. How I found them I’ll never be able to remember, but their striking photos of their donuts that bordered on high fashion caught my eye. This was clearly not a regular donut shop you’d find in an American strip mall, and the store’s façade made sure of that. This was Paris, and these donuts were elevated. My curiosity peeked even further once I found out the head pastry chef and co-owner, Raamin Samiyi, is an Iranian-American who was raised in California. Naturally, I had so many questions.

As I walked into the shop, it took me a moment for my eyes to adjust to the change in lighting. Black wooden walls lined with mirrors, lit dimly, just enough to draw your eyes to what was important. 6 single donuts lined the mirrors, each with its own spotlight and description card. There was no fluorescent lighting, no bright display cases showcasing ample amounts of pastries, no peek inside the kitchen where donuts were made.

Sleek, dramatic, captivating. This was a show, an exhibition, and the donuts were the stars.

Raamin Samiyi was raised between the east and west coasts of the U.S. in an Iranian household. His mother, whom he calls “momzi”, and his grandmother were always in the kitchen cooking traditional dishes. Persian flavors have remained on his palate ever since, and have continued to be sources of inspiration for his culinary creations even today. At Momzi he’s incorporated pistachios, turmeric, and rosewater into his decadent donut recipes so far, and he sees barberries, figs, and black cumin making appearances on the horizon.

But the journey leading him to open a luxury donut concept in the heart of Paris was far from obvious. It was technically a fruit of the pandemic, but it wasn’t nearly that straightforward. His abilities to pivot and think creatively on his feet have gotten him through all the twists and turns over the years.

Around fourteen years old he felt a sudden infatuation with French culture and began teaching himself the language. Around the same time in high school, he started working as a cashier at a local grocery store making his way up to the bakery as the cake decorator. But coming from an Iranian family put him on the path toward the sciences in university. To meet his family’s asks halfway, he moved to France for his master’s in Pharmacology and landed a job soon after in Paris.

But eventually, burnout hit, and he realized he needed to shake things up. He couldn’t sit behind a screen all day—he wanted to work with his hands. So he moved to New York to decompress, and several odd jobs finally led him back into a bakery.

Raamin always had a more modern perspective on pastry, but he knew he had to learn the basics first. He flew back to France again for pastry school, where he learned traditional French techniques and practices that built the canvas he could play on.

A year in Avignon working under award-winning pastry chef Yazid Ichemrahen furthered his expertise, and once back in Paris he landed him a job with the renown group Maison Rostang . Exciting as it was to put his creativity to the test as the head pastry chef, the gruesome working hours and more traditional approach to kitchen operations eventually made him rethink working in restaurants at all.

So once again, he pivoted.

After some time off traveling and freelancing as a consultant, he was offered a job as the sous-chef at Hotel Lutetia, a prestigious palace in the center of Paris. A palace, as I learned, is a luxury hotel one notch above 5 stars, and in France, they have built a reputation for hosting world-renown pastry programs. Here, Raamin’s creativity and technique continued to flourish with the dynamic nature of the hotel’s needs.

***

When Covid hit, he was let go. For eight months he spent his time working on personal projects, like his Quarantine Cookbook, while living in the South with friends. Re-energized and re-inspired, he came back to Paris to accept an offer as the head pastry chef at Pilgrim, a Michelin one-star restaurant. Even though he had written off working in restaurants, this felt different. Here, the kitchen felt looser, more modern, and less constricting. He felt comfortable in his shoes and loved his team. They gave him “carte blanche”, full creative freedom to experiment as he wished, and when Covid hit a second round, the experiments did not falter.

This is where the donuts finally come in. As Raamin and Pilgrim were brainstorming simple menu items that could fit a takeaway model, they brought up the idea of donuts. Raamin took the concept and sprinted with it. These were not going to be average, run-of-the-mill donuts but would push the boundaries of what had ever been before. The concept proved to thrive, so Raamin continued to run with it. He brought on his friend Thomas Bellego, who had an eye for art direction that could lift the project to the heights he was envisioning.

Together they honed the idea to achieve what is now a culmination of Raamin’s creative, culinary, and cultural journeys. The process would be molecular, the recipes driven by the highest quality ingredients, and every piece would be made by hand. Every single donut would be unique, and everything used to create the recipes and build the shops would be organic. Sprinkle in a Persian touch, memories of his mother and grandmother in the kitchen, to fully round out the concept.

A year and a half later, Momzi was born and continues to thrive.

 
 

Persianness #1: Shiva

photos/words by Shabnam Ferdowsi

The story about how I found myself in the French countryside eating Persian tahchin rice, baking sourdough focaccia and reminiscing about Tehran with strangers I had felt like I had known for years is a serendipitous one. It begins with connecting with Shiva Shirazi (@gouter.partager) on Instagram a couple of months before.

Shiva had found my page through some photos I had posted of a Paris-based food artist’s work. My Persian name piqued her curiosity and my photos of sangak bread from a trip to a bakery in Tehran pulled at her heartstrings. Once she started following me, I was just as curious. How did this Tehran-born baker end up in the countryside of central France?

A few messages back and forth led to an invitation to come through to the farm anytime I wished, an offer I immediately and eagerly took. A month later, I got on a train (well, three) out of Paris and headed to Loches, the town nearby where they would pick me up, hoping to uncover some stories, cook up some food with Shiva, and capture this moment in time.

Shiva was born and raised in Tehran before moving to Vancouver in 2019 to study design. It was there that her love for baking really fell into place and took the lead over her architecture degree. For six months in 2021, she ran a pop-up out of the Pie Shoppe, where a few times a week they would let her take over the kitchen and offer an array of her baked goods at the counter.

It was also in Vancouver where she met her husband, Kévin, and at the end of 2021, they decided to move back to his home country of France. They spent six months driving around the country, getting a feel for different cities and regions, and searching for their new home. On the last weekend, they stopped by a farm where Kevin’s friend had been living for a few years. An hour away from Tours, in the Touraine region, this huge property was passed down for generations over the past couple of centuries, and now was being run and rebuilt by a small crew of friends.

At a loss for where to settle down, Shiva and Kevin decided to join this little community on the Montruand farm until the future figured itself out.

On Saturday morning, I went to Loches with Shiva and Kévin for the weekend farmers’ market. The market was nestled all around the center of town, a conglomeration of all the local farmers and artisans in the area: cheeses, juices, jams, breads, and produce, all cultivated and created in the region, sometimes by the very people selling them at the market stands.

That weekend, Shiva would be working on a catering event, in collaboration with Juliette Krier who runs a farm in the area. Once a month they work together to host brunches for some 15-20 guests, Juliette taking care of the savory menu, Shiva handling the sweets. While Shiva and Juliette prepped that afternoon, I floated from my camera to the whisk, helping where I could, capturing what caught my eye.

Aside from these brunches, Shiva also sells her baked goods at markets or pop-up events in the area. Even though their life in the countryside is temporary, Shiva has found a way to connect with the local community of makers and creatives to keep pursuing her passion, experimenting where she can, and adding a touch of Persian flavors whenever possible.

Sunday night was going to be a community dinner for the group living on the Montruand farm, so I spent the day working on sourdough focaccia (thanks to Shiva’s ripe rye starter). Between each fold during the bulk fermentation of the dough, Kévin shared with me his latest passion for marbling paper and we both geeked out over Carl Zeiss (camera lenses in my case, binoculars in his). When Shiva got back from her event, we all got around the kitchen counter and began prepping for dinner. Everything had an inspiration: smashed roasted eggplant, beet yogurt (maast o laboo), cucumber yogurt (maast o khiar), saffron and barberry rice cake (tahchin), asparagus with a creme fraiche sauce, and my focaccia infused with cumin and topped with sumac and salt.

I was reminded of my days spent experimenting in my kitchen, how motivated I was to bring these same flavors from my roots into dishes I could share with my friends as well, and how good it felt to collaborate on aligned ideas again.

When I learned that Shiva had grown up in the same neighborhood as my grandparents in Tehran, near the same square I had spent all my summers walking around, it solidified the synergy I felt all weekend. I felt like I had known Shiva and Kévin for years as we shared each others’ stories about food, immigration, creativity, and culture. We were asking the same questions from life and ourselves, and it felt like we had all unknowingly walked into an unplanned brainstorming session.

What kind of city will fit all our needs? How do we build something new in a new country? How do we stay connected to our roots? How can we use food to build something sustainable for ourselves and meaningful for others? And is there really such a thing as too much saffron? (Kevin says there is no such thing!)

Though we didn’t find the answers to all these questions by the time they dropped me off at the train station on Monday morning, I left feeling reassured and re-inspired— reassured to know there are others out there searching for their right place, re-inspired by the power that food has in connecting us to one another and all the places we’ve been.

Scenes from Service: Lucky Nick's Pizza x Woon Kitchen

Scenes From Service is a photo series capturing the ins and outs of service at restaurants, pop-ups, bars, and anywhere else chefs are bringing people together. It’s about the hands that cook, the mouths that devour, the moments around a shared dish, what was said, what was felt, and what might go unnoticed otherwise.

Here’s a look at the collaborative pop-up between Lucky Nick’s Pizza and Woon Kitchen with wines curated by Pinkies Up, on Tuesday, July 19 in Los Angeles and some words by Nick Camacho, owner and head chef at Lucky Nick’s.

photos by Shab Ferdowsi

“[During a rush] I’m usually thinking “this is absolutely insane.” I also find myself getting the same rush I did from playing in bands for so long. It’s exactly like hopping on stage and performing. It’s definitely drug-like. “

“When I prep I actually listen to a lot of podcasts. Currently, I’m listening to a lot of the Smart Pizza Marketing podcast and The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry.”

Catch Lucky Nick’s at a new location around LA every week, and stay tuned for more pop-ups on the patio at Woon!

Inside a Paris Crêperie in Montparnasse: Le Petit Josselin

words and photos by Shab Ferdowsi

Until a month ago, the main kind of crêpe I had eaten was filled with an unruly, albeit somehow acceptable, amount of Nutella. As I scoped crêperie menus searching for ones to try in Paris, I quickly realized how little I knew about crêpes at all.

The crêpe that I’ve known is made with regular flour, and on Parisian menus, this type of crêpe is always meant to be sweet. Its savory counterpart, however, is called a galette and hails from Brittany. Made with buckwheat flour (which gives it a dark brown hue), the galette is a Breton dish traditionally served with a cup (or rather, bowl) of Breton cider.

In searching for restaurants near my apartment in the 14th arrondissement, I found a cluster of crêperies lining a couple of streets near the Montparnasse train station. Peculiar— why would they all decide to open up in the same neighborhood?

I decided to do some digging, and found a kind crêperie owner to give me the inside scoop!

Le Petit Josselin

Le Petit Josselin is the little sister to Le Creperie de Josselin just up the street, but historically the first in the family’s name. The small restaurant was opened first over 50 years ago by the owner’s parents— Marie-Therese, a Breton from the city of Josselin, and Giorgio an Italian ex-pat. As it gained popularity, they moved over to a bigger space up the street. Now, both restaurants still bustle on the Rue de Montparnasse, with guests forming lines even in the middle of the day on a Friday when I visited.

Giorgio Benuzzi, owner of Le Petit Josselin

A bowl of Breton cider and a buckwheat galette, filled with spinach and cheese, topped with ham and an egg

When I walked into Le Petit Josselin, I was met with an ecstatic smile and a fist pump from the owner, and the original founders’ son, Giorgio Benuzzi. Over an espresso, he told me about his family’s journey running two shops in this historically Breton neighborhood. He showed me around the space, and let me take photos of the chef who has been with them for almost twenty years

For lunch, I asked for his recommendation and got a classic galette filled with cheese and spinach, topped with an egg and ham. As I ate my buckwheat crêpe and indulged in a small pitcher of cider to myself, the restaurant filled up quickly for the lunch rush. Giorgio greeted everyone who walked through the door with bright enthusiasm as if seeing an old friend.

The menu is traditional, but where Giorgio’s creativity comes into play is the weekly specials. That day the sweet crêpe was filled with matcha cream, azuki, and topped with sesame ice cream. He launched the Instagram account barely 6 months ago to fuel his creativity and show a different side of the restaurants the neighborhood has come to know well.

So why are there so many crêperies in Montparnasse?

The answer is simpler than you think. The Montparnasse train station connects Paris to the many cities in the Brittany region. So when the Breton began migrating to the capital seems like they didn’t venture too far to settle down and build their community. Of course your can find traditional Breton crêperies all over the city, but if you really want a foray to choose from, grab any metro to get yourself over to the 14th arrondissement and you’ll have over a dozen options.

If you ask me, nothing beats walking into a restaurant where the owner himself greets you like family. And, in the words of Benuzzi himself, rest assured Le Petit Josselin churns out crêpes and galettes “better than the big mac” than will transport you Brittany with the first bite.

150 Years of Neapolitan Pizza Tradition with Paris Chef Guillaume Grasso

words and photos by Shab Ferdowsi

Location: Paris, France. Guillaume Grasso Pizzeria

You can find a pizzeria on almost every block in Paris. Most of them are Italian-owned and half of them boasts a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan-style pizzas. I’m on a mission to eat as much pizza and meet as many of the chefs while I’m here and will walk twenty thousand steps a day to justify it. 

I walked into Guillaume Grasso’s pizzeria in the 15th district on a Friday afternoon. The room is small but vibrant, reminiscent of the bustling streets of the Italian south. The walls are lined with old photographs of past Grasso pizzerias. I felt eel the warmth of the region as the hosts greeted me and weaved their way around the tight corners of the restaurant. Chef Grasso was behind the counter alone stretching the dough and launching pizzas into the oven. I waved q quick “ciao,” ordered a Speck e Rucola pizza, and grabbed a seat by the window.

Today, Guillaume Grasso’s pizza restaurant is the only pizzeria in Paris to hold an official certificate from the Associazione Verace de la Pizza Napoletana. The AVPN’s guidelines, though strict, aren’t hard to follow– a wood-fired oven, ingredients mainly hailing from Italy’s Campania region, and a specific dough process outline what the association has deemed a true Neapolitan pizza. Though the guidelines sound simple, in a modern-day, fast-paced pizzeria it takes commitment to tradition and the artisanal craft to pull off the process night after night. 

Halfway through my solo pizza date, Chef Grasso joined me at my table to chat about our mutual enthusiasm for the craft and his journey that led him here. His family has been in the pizza business for over a hundred years, with traces of a Grasso slinging pizzas in the streets of Naples dating back to 1850. In the early 20th century his grandparents relocated to France. In 2013, a trip to his home country inspired Chef Grasso, then a server, to bring authentic Neapolitan tradition to Paris.

A stint at the Associazione taught him technique and theory, and another at his family’s pizzeria, Gorizia, in Naples taught him the rest he needed to be able to continue their traditional recipes in Paris. 

Guillaume Grasso is currently planning on opening a wine bar later this spring two doors down from the pizzeria, which is sure to bring another dose of Italian conviviality to the city of lights. 

CHEF’s CHOICE: Chef Grasso’s Favorite Pizzerias

Pizzeria Gorizia 1916 - the historic Grasso pizzeria in Naples

Olio e pomodoro - also Grasso-owned

Pizzeria lombardi
50 kalo